Every farmer knows that one of the most important elements in developing a farm’s productivity is monitoring soil quality. There is a lot that can be done to amend bad soil, and a lot that has to be done to keep good soil producing – but it all begins with knowing what the quality is to begin with. Otherwise you’re chasing black cats in the dark – a lot of exercise, but you’ll only get results by luck. Every farmer also knows that luck isn’t something to be relied on. Soil testing is the farmer’s tool that turns on the lights and makes it possible to get scientific about soil management. Here are some tips on testing your soil this year.
The best time to collect samples, obviously enough, is when the field is idle and you’re not frantically trying to bring in a harvest. Don’t try to squeeze testing in between other farm tasks; wait until you have some downtime. Late fall offers a pretty good window for many farmers, once the harvest is in. You should test no less often than every four years – more often if you’re pursuing an aggressive soil amendment strategy.
The most important element in taking your samples is the variability of your fields. A field that has been manure-spread or had banded fertilization is going to be a lot more variable than a field that’s only had broadcast fertilizer application. Geography and soil type changes across a field can also play into variability – so break down your land into sections that are as internally consistent as possible. If there used to be a fence on the property, use that fence line as one of your boundaries – odds are good that the historical use on each side of the fence varied, and so the soil won’t be the same. Each section should be no more than 20 acres. A map of your sections will be very helpful when you get out into the field to take the samples.
The number of cores to take in each section will depend on your estimation of the section’s internal variability. For manure or banded fertilizer areas, or sections that have inconsistent soil types, take 15 or 20 samples. In a more uniform section, you can get by with 10 to 15. Take your samples along diagonals, not in straight lines, and randomize your site selections to avoid getting too much of one area. Don’t take samples near gravel roads – contamination from the gravel can throw your results way off. Take cores six to seven inches deep, and make sure the soil is moist when you sample – if it’s too dry, some of the soil will come off your auger and you won’t be getting proper cores.
Put the cores from each section into a bucket, and break up the cores thoroughly. Don’t use a metal bucket – they will contaminate your sample with mineral micronutrients and give you worthless results. Mix the soil as well as you possibly can – you want absolute uniformity in each section’s sample. From the bucket, take about 1.5 cups of soil into a sample bag or box – and mark it so that you know which section it came from! (You might think you’ll remember, but if you’re like me, you won’t.)
Now you’ve got good samples from each section of your land, and you can send them off to the private lab or your local ag university’s test lab. Each lab will have its own soil information sheet, which you will need to fill in as accurately as possible – they use the information you provide about field history and your local geography to do the calculations for the recommendations they’ll make.
Soil testing is a science these days – if you give the lab boys a proper sample and the right information, the information they will return to you will be of great use in planning your soil amendment efforts into the future.




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